Ladakh at a gentler pace

What you can do

• Spend the first 48 hours in Leh doing nothing, so your body adjusts to 3,500m
• Visit Thiksey monastery for the morning prayers and Hemis for the museum
• Cross Khardung La to Nubra for sand dunes, double humped camels and Diskit monastery
• Add Pangong Tso only if you have a spare day, the drive is long and very high

Food to try

Ladakhi food is built for altitude: thukpa noodle soup, momos, skyu pasta stew and tsampa barley flour. Butter tea is an acquired taste, so ask for sweet tea, and drink far more water than feels necessary.

Culture & customs

This is Tibetan Buddhist territory, with prayer wheels turned clockwise and monasteries that are working homes, not exhibits. Dress modestly at gompas, ask before photographing monks, and take your rubbish out with you.